Orientation-
Please listen to your animated instructor explain this section.
Then, head over to Aphrodite’s Salon.
which has transformed into a classroom today.
Bring your notebooks, laptops, and curiosity. Today, we’re about to learn to convert some recipes into formulas.
When we change from creating recipes we use at home and for family, we scale up by making other changes in our thinking and procedures.
Recipes Vs. Formulas Video
If we create products for stores or online platforms, we must meet standards. We need to know the product is safe to make, safe for the customer, and shelf-stable. When we create home-use products, they must be safe but do not require a best-before date or have to be the same each time. If you decide to keep your creations to yourself and not sell them, you will avoid Canadian Government standards. However, you might still use formulas rather than recipes to increase your knowledge and skills.
You will need different equipment to create formulas, and buying emulsifiers, preservatives, solubilizers, etc., is an extra expense. So how much you invest is up to you. Start with the minimum if you decide to try this.
Formulas are advantageous when we sell products.
In formulas, the measurements are written in grams.
Formulas are presented in percentages that add up to 100%. We can then quickly scale them up or down from there.
Formulas are written in phases. Usually, the water phase is A. The oil phase is B, and the cool-down phase is C, making it easier to organize your many ingredients.
Formulas containing water-based substances require preservatives to make them safe and have a longer shelf life.
Anhydrous formulas (oil-based) do not. They require antioxidants, usually vitamin E or rosemary extract.
Preparing Your Space Video
What is an INCI ? Video
In the following video, Zane pronounces INCI differently than I do. I say something that sounds like Inky. So, Zane has some information for you, but I prefer you use my pronunciation:)
This is the formal way to identify your ingredients. INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, a common terminology manufacturers and suppliers use. The INCI (pronounced Inky) is the botanical Latin name for a plant. For other ingredients, like preservatives, it is the chemical name. The INCI (pronounced Inky) will allow you to find and purchase the ingredient you are looking for. Interestingly, there are different versions of the INCI book. We use the 11th version in Canada, while the U.S.A. uses an older version.
Now, let’s move on to products and procedures used in commercial products.
What is An Emulsifier?
An emulsifier is a substance that stabilizes lotions, creams, and other products by binding the water and oil phases together. Using emulsifiers when creating a professional product lessens the chance that the cream or lotion will separate with time. Lecithin, used in some creams and lotions, does have some binding ability and is sufficient for at-home products.
Some emulsifiers are safer than others. The two listed below, OliveM 1000 and Ritamulse, are Eco-Certified. Polawax is not, but it is a reliable workhorse for many situations. There are many emulsifiers on the market. These three are a good start. If I started with just one, it would be Olive M 1000.
The Emulsifier Video
3 Emulsifiers
Olive M 1000
Olive M 1000 has a melting temperature of ~70°C and should be added to the heated oil phase, which is also true of the other two mentioned. You may already be familiar with Olive M 1000, an easy-to-use emulsifier that creates pleasant oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. Olive M 1000 has a maximum recommended oil phase of ~25% (including the emulsifier). The stability of Olivem 1000 is improved by adding a water-phase thickener like Xanthan Gum at about 0.2% to the formula.
Fatty alcohols such as Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol can be added to the oil phase for thickening if needed.
Typical usage rates:
- (serums and lotions): 3 – 5%
- Heavier (lotions and creams): 7 – 8%
Appearance: Off-White Flakes
Solubility: Soluble in oil
Melting temperature: minimum~70°C
Polawax
Polawax – INCI Emulsifying WAX NF- Cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60
A blend of Fatty Alcohol and Ethoxylated Sorbian Ester
PH 5.5-7 Use at about 3-4%, or 25% of the oil phase.
Polawax is an effective emulsifier that is suitable for preparing cosmetic oil/water emulsions. It can also increase the thickness of formulations, eliminating the need for additional ingredients. It works well as an emulsion’s sole emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizer. Examples include creams, lotions, body butter, conditioners, face cleansers, and baby products. Polawax is easy to use and creates a lovely texture in creams and lotions.
Add to the oil phase of the project. Melt at 75 C.
Polawax is not Eco-Certified.
Ritamulse
Ritamulse– INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearyl Lactylate
Could you be sure to melt this emulsifier fully? It may need to get to 80 C.
Ritamulse SCG is an all-natural EcoCert oil-in-water emulsifier. Derived from vegetables, it is 100% vegan.
Ritamulse SCG contains acyl lactylates, which condition hair and skin. Acyl lactylates are surface-active emulsifying agents with water-holding capabilities, which make them excellent moisturizers. They are great in facial products because they are mild and have low eye sting properties.
Formulating Tips
You can use up to 25% oils in a formulation.
Not compatible with cationic ingredients
The ideal pH range is 5 – 7.5
Lotions made with Ritamulse SCG are generally thicker than lotions made with other emulsifiers.
Typical usage rates: 2 – 10%
Appearance: White Flakes
Solubility: Soluble in oil
You can buy all 3 of these products at a Calgary online business. windypointsoap.com
We have included a few other descriptions of emulsifiers in your advanced glossary, which you can download again at the bottom of this page: https://www.northernstarcourses.com/lesson/c-practical-potions-advanced
If you need it handy.
What is a Preservative? Video
Preservatives are used when water or water-based ingredients, like aloe juice and hydrosols, are in a formula. They deter bacteria and fungus from forming. They are used at about 1% when your product is cool and in its final stage.
Euxyl,9010, and Geogard ECT are both Ecologically based.
Germall Plus is not ecologically based but is used for heavy-duty preservation cases.
A few preservatives we use are:
Euxyl® PE 9010 is recommended for use in:
• Creams, lotions, and serums
• Shampoo**, conditioners, and other hair care products
This preservative has a wide pH level, making it compatible with most formulas. I suggest using Propendiol 1,3 instead of glycerine in recipes to boost preservation efficacy.
https://pureblendnaturals.com/
Germall Plus Liquid– broad-spectrum Preservative
provides complete, broad-spectrum preservation against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and mould.
INCI: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate.
• Recommended use levels in a finished formulation is 0.1 – 0.5%.
• It is effective over a broad pH range from 3 – 8.
• Add at 50°C or below during the cool-down stage of processing.
Geogard ECT– Broadspectrum preservative-
• Geogard ECT is a unique, patent-pending combination of benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, glycerin, and sorbic acid, which are well-accepted in many personal care products. Broad-spectrum protection against Gram-positive & Gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and moulds at wide pH ranges.
• Meets the COSMOS and ECOCERT standards
• Broad-spectrum activity on bacteria, yeast, and moulds
• Water-soluble
Geoguard Ultra is also a very useful preservative.
A few more preservatives are also covered in your Advanced Glossary.
Preservatives for Room Sprays (Solubilizers)
Solubilizers dissolve one substance into another in skincare formulations. They are instrumental in mixing essential oils into water-based products. Solubilizers, such as oil and water, blend ingredients that typically do not mix. Their function is similar to that of emulsifiers but focuses on creating clarity and stability in solutions. When using solubilizers, follow the directions for that particular product.
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate:
This is a natural solubilizer derived from sunflower oil and glycerin. It’s excellent for creating oil-in-water emulsions, making it ideal for blending essential oils into water-based products. It meets high environmental and sustainability standards.
pH Range: It works well in a broad pH range, typically from 5 to 8, which is excellent for skin-friendly formulations.
The usage rate usually ranges from 1% to 10%, depending on the oil load and the desired product consistency.
Polysorbate 20:
Derived from lauric acid and sorbitol, Polysorbate 20 is a non-toxic, non-irritating solubilizer often used in cosmetics. It effectively dissolves essential oils into water-based solutions.
While it’s a natural product, its eco-certification depends on the manufacturer, so it’s essential to check.
pH Range: It’s stable across a wide pH range but optimally used between pH 5 and 7.
Usage Rates: Generally, usage rates are around 1-5%. It’s important to balance the amount to prevent skin irritation.
Lecithin:
Lecithin is a natural solubilizer extracted from soy or sunflower. It’s biodegradable and gentle, ideal for natural cosmetic formulations. Soy and sunflower lecithin can often be found in EcoCert or similar certifications, particularly if they’re non-GMO.
pH Range: Best used in products with a pH range of 5 to 7.
Usage Rates: It’s typically used at 0.5% to 5%. The concentration would depend on the formulation and the oil content.
Here are the recommendations by Robert Tisserand for using alcohol as a solubilizer.
Room and Pillow Sprays- Preserved With Alcohol
Tisserand-
For example, let’s start with a four oz. (~113 grams) spray bottle to make a master base. You would use:
• 1 oz (~28 grams) 190 proof/95% ethanol (25% of the whole formula)
• 3 oz (~85 grams) distilled water (75% of the whole formula)
(gram measurements have been rounded for ease of measuring)
Subtract the percentage of essential oil you want to use from the water. If making a spray with 3% total essential oils, your formula would be 25% ethanol, 72% distilled water, and 3% essential oil. Using percentages, you can make any size batch by using simple multiplication to determine the amount needed for each ingredient.
Again, using four oz. of spray, the approximate measurements for the above formula would be as follows (weight measurements):
• 1 oz (~28 grams) ethanol (95%/190 proof)
• 2.88 oz (~82 grams) distilled water
• 0.12 oz (~3 grams) essential oil
Important to note:
• Any alcohol, including ethanol, can damage surfaces and finishes such as finished wood, countertops, or even manicures. Remember, it’s a solvent, and so are many essential oils. Take care to avoid direct contact with finished surfaces.
• Equally important, if making a body spray, avoid using phototoxic essential oils if you plan to go outdoors after use and observe general safety and safe dilution recommendations for all essential oils. Those are easily found in Essential Oil Safety, 2e (Tisserand & Young)
• If you plan to sell a handmade product containing ethanol, check all the corresponding federal, state, and county/city laws, restrictions, and requirements first. This involves some sticky areas that could get you into serious trouble.
If you would like to use a solubilizer with your spray, please follow the directions on the solubilizer.
What is an Antioxidant?
Antioxidants are not the same as preservatives. They will not prevent water- and oil-based products that come in contact with water from spoiling, such as a face scrub. Antioxidants are used to keep oil-based products from going off. Use small amounts of antioxidants in oil-based products and oil-and-water products.
The two great antioxidants used in making natural cosmetics are- Rosemary extract and Vitamin E.
So, we will include antioxidants and preservatives in the more professional water- and oil-based recipes, such as lotions, creams, and emulsions.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol):
Typically, Vitamin E is used at 0.5% to 2% in formulations. The exact percentage can depend on the type of product and the oils used. For example, products with a higher rate of unsaturated fats (like sweet almond or rosehip oil) might benefit from a higher concentration of Vitamin E.
Note: It’s also important to consider the type of Vitamin E. Natural Vitamin E (often listed as d-alpha-tocopherol) is more potent than synthetic versions (dl-alpha-tocopherol), so you might need less if you’re using the natural form.
Rosemary Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract):
The typical usage rate for rosemary extract is between 0.02% and 0.5%. The concentration depends on the extract’s potency and the product type. It’s potent, so a little goes a long way.
Note: Rosemary extract comes in various forms, such as oil-soluble and CO2 extracts. Your chosen form will impact its effectiveness and how it should be incorporated into your product. Pay attention to your supplier’s specifications.
The Heat and Hold Method For Making Creams & Lotions, Video
The Heat and Hold method may be best done in a partial way, where only the water phase is heated and held.
The oil phase is heated briefly, and the two phases are mixed at a similar temperature. The reasoning for only holding the water phase is to kill the water-based microbes but not damage the more heat-sensitive oils.
Certain heat-sensitive carrier oils can be added in the final phase without heating, but they must account for only about 3% of the total formula weight.
Some formulators heat but do not hold with either the water or oil phases. They still carefully mix the oil and water at the same temperature to ensure proper emulsification. What do you think?
Measuring the PH of Your Product Video
PH is a value that indicates the acidity or alkalinity of a water-containing blend.
Think of pH as a skincare product’s mood meter.’ It ranges from 0 (super acidic) to 14 (super alkaline), with seven being neutral, like water. Our skin prefers a slightly acidic environment (around 4.7 to 5.75) to stay happy and healthy. Why does this matter? Well, if a skincare product is too far off from our skin’s natural pH, it can result in irritation or dryness. This is super important when mixing up lotions or toners; you want them to be in harmony with the skin’s pH.
Here’s the twist: oil-based products, like your aromatic oil blends, don’t have a pH because they lack water. But, when they meet water (like on damp skin), they can influence the overall pH balance. So, testing and tweaking the pH of your water-based products using pH strips is crucial. A slight adjustment here and there (with citric acid to lower or sodium hydroxide to raise the pH) can make a difference, allowing you to create products that smell divine and are in sync with your skin’s natural groove.
To measure Ph, you need to buy PH strips. They are easily available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/Haobase-Range-Strips-Litmus-Testing/dp/B0181SWWMG/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1R5U4B0IJQIRI&keywords=ph+strips&qid=1643473648&sprefix=ph+strips%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-6
PH meters are also available, but you may only need one if you become a professional. The skin usually prefers a product with a pH of 4.5 to 5.7.
If your PH is too high, alkaline, or over 5.7, you can lower it by adding citric or lactic acid. Add a tiny bit to your product, take another sample and remeasure. Keep adjusting very slowly.
If, on the other hand, your product is too acidic, under 4.5, add a bit of baking soda, Sodium hydroxide, or L-arginine to it and remeasure. These straightforward tips can help you get the proper pH for your product to help it last longer and be compatible with your skin and your chosen preservative.
I mix citric acid in distilled water to lower the pH and sodium hydroxide to increase it. I keep those pre-mixed bottles handy to balance my product while formulating.
Always check your preservative’s requirements and stay within the range of skin preference when creating your blends.
You may also like to study this topic more in-depth. We have included a link to another pH measurement video below.
How to Measure PH- Video
Equipment Video
All equipment is optional, but some might be handy depending on how deep you want to go down this rabbit hole called blending. The following video and write-up outline some simple, reasonably priced ideas. You can choose only what works for your interests and budget.
Supplies and Equipment-
Bottles and jars:
Try amazon.ca, and for larger orders, try Richards packaging and uline.ca.
Thermometer. Temperature is vital with creams and emulsions. On Amazon.ca, Laurie got an Astro Al infrared 380 and liked it. It was around thirty dollars.
Beakers 100 to 500 ml are necessary. Smaller and larger sizes may also be desirable. You can get them on Amazon.ca. Could you read the reviews? Boroscolite seems good. Initially, glass pans or bowls are adequate.
Scales
A small scale– Go to your local cannabis shop. Laurie got a $20.00 scale that measures below a gram. 
For a larger scale – try amazon.ca. Could you read the reviews?
Use a Stir Stick, Spoon, and silicone scraper to clean the sides of your containers. Metal utensils and bowls can react with your product, so glass is best.
A Double Boiler can be made from a hot plate and pan to heat water, or you can use your stovetop and create a double boiler with a pan of water, where you place the beakers or containers.
An immersion blender is necessary. Try Canadian Tire or a local department store. Get something powerful and easy to clean.
Ph Strips or a Ph Meter– To measure the pH of your product. Adjust pH upward; add more alkaline by adding a bit of baking soda; downward, add more acidity by adding citric acid or lactic acid.
Basic Starting Ingredients–
a) Always check your recipe or formula before starting. Ordering your ingredients may take a week or more. Know how to substitute ingredients to make formulas more effective for your goals. For instance, a carrier oil can be substituted for another carrier with similar properties; the same goes for essential oils. You only need some of them!
We have only listed 3 in this program for preservatives and emulsifiers to make this selection easier. You can start by picking one preservative and one emulsifier.
You will need a broad-spectrum preservative for anything containing water- Euxyl® ECO 910, Geogard Ect, Germall Plus, or Liquid. Germall Plus is powerful but is not eco-certified. If you use Euxyl, you will also need Propendial 1,3. Geoguard Ultra is another functional preservative you might research:)
You will require an antioxidant for anything oil-based. Rosemary extract or vitamin E are your choices. Windypointsoap.ca
Xanthan gum or Tara root is desirable to thicken the water phase of your products. Windypointsoap.ca
You will also need glycerine and propanediol 1 or 3 as your humectant and a way to incorporate the xanthan gum into the water phase of the product. Windypoint.ca
How to Ensure Your Creams and Lotions Emulsify Video
Graininess When Making Products Using Butters
Butters can cause your products to be grainy. Here are a few tricks for working with them and getting smoother products:
Melt butter slow and low, possibly in a double boiler. Some kinds of butter must be brought to 175 Fahrenheit before they melt.
Tempering: After melting the butter, cool it to a specific temperature before allowing it to set. Rapid cooling helps in creating a uniform crystal structure. For instance, after heating your shea or mango butter, quickly cool it to about 85-95 Fahrenheit before it sets. This rapid shift from hot to warm helps prevent graininess.
Blending with Carrier Oils: Mixing butter with carrier oils can reduce graininess. Oils like almond or jojoba can make the texture smoother. This method works great if your formulation allows for a softer consistency.
Microwave Method: If you’re short on time or don’t have a double boiler, you can gently melt the butter in a microwave. Use a low setting and short bursts of time, stirring between each burst to ensure even heating. This method requires careful attention to avoid overheating.
Consistent Stirring During Cooling: Sometimes, simply stirring the butter as it cools can prevent the formation of grains. This constant movement can help maintain an even texture throughout the cooling process. I like my immersion blender for this purpose.
Remember, each type of butter behaves a bit differently. Shea butter, for instance, is notorious for its grainy texture if not handled properly, while cocoa butter might solidify differently.
Butters, especially shea, crystallize when they cool too slowly, so cooling them in a fridge can be helpful. Whipping your mix can also help change the texture. You would do this after it cools down.